Welcome again to “When Wine Calls” – I trust you enjoyed reading about our Edinburgh adventure.
We were so excited to pick up the hire car and head off on our road trip through the Scottish Highlands. We were upgraded to a VW Golf for the journey but ran into some issues straight away with working out how to open the boot to put our bags in as well as starting the car. After a few embarrassing moments with other travellers watching on we worked it out, managed to get all our bags in the boot, (a miracle in itself) loaded up the GPS and we were on the road.
I had not driven a manual car for I don’t know how many years, but I figured it would be like riding a bike and luckily it came back to me rather quickly as we eased our way through the back streets of Edinburgh without stalling or leapfrogging heading for the M9 motorway. Once on the motorway the real fun began with cars passing us like we were standing still but we survived this experience and it proved to be nothing compared to what was to come later in the day.
Our first stop was an old Country Manor House (Ardanaiseig House) located right on gorgeous Loch Awe (Note: Loch is a Scottish term for lake). To get there you had to drive miles down what they call a Single-Track Road which is a one lane country road with small passing spaces strategically located for when you get an oncoming car – the idea being that the car closes to one of these passing spaces backs up and allows the other car to pass.
The only issue is that the tall grass hedges grow right up to the side of the road, so it is extremely difficult to see any oncoming traffic. Pauline and I were both so busy looking out for signs of other vehicles that we couldn’t take in the magnificent scenery we were driving through. It was a relief when we finally sighted the Gate House at the entrance to Ardanaiseig House and we could take in the grandeur of the location we would be staying in that night.
The home itself is such a grand Scottish building built back in 1834 with spectacular views of the Loch from the library, reading and dining rooms.
To be able to sit in the bay windows at Happy Hour with a wine and look out at the Loch with the sun shining on the water was idyllic.
A benefit of being in Scotland at this time of year is that sunset is not until after 10pm although it takes a bit of getting use to compared to back home. After dinner we withdrew (i.e. “moved” in Aussie) to the reading or bar room for an aperitif (in our case a dessert wine) and then walked around the grounds with the sun still lighting up the Loch. It was a very magical time staying here and enjoying time in a bygone era.
The next morning, we looked at the map and decided that since we had only a relatively short distance to Oban, our next stop, we would drive a longer route along the Loch to explore a few local towns. We soon discovered that we should have asked the hotel before embarking on this route as we were back on single track roads again that were worse than the day before with no turning around option and the small towns shown on the map comprised instead a few houses and nothing more, not even a pub!
When we finally got to our accommodation in the afternoon, in very much need of you guess it, a drink! the Maitre d’ David shook his head, laughed, and outlined that the roads we had just travelled on are commonly used for rallying practice – we are sure he was thinking “crazy Aussies” but was too polite to say anymore. Nevertheless, the scenery we travelled over was spectacular and seen only by the locals that live there so that made it quite special.
We were really looking forward to our next few nights in Oban (pronounced Ah-Bin). When we were researching the trip there were rave reviews about the chef that worked at The Manor House and so we decided we had to stay there to experience the culinary delights.
When we arrived, we were certainly not disappointed, The Manor House is located high on a hill with sweeping views overlooking Oban and the harbour.
It was so nice to sit out on the front lawn and take in the view each night for Happy Hour and then enjoy the most magnificent meals. A real gem of a find with our few days there worth the effort we made on those interesting roads beforehand.
While in Oban we also discovered the Oban Chocolate Shop that makes great cappuccinos as well as hand made chocolates and being located right on the harbour foreshore you can enjoy a wonderful view from their large windows. We went there each morning as you must.
We also visited Dunollie Castle on a hill right at the harbour entrance where the large ferries heading for the Isle of Mull and Hebrides islands pass through regularly each day. The other major landmark is McCraig Tower and yes requires walking up more steep steps to get there but it is more like looking at a Roman Colosseum (albeit round rather than oval shaped) than a tower – it was never finished after McCraig passed away, which is a pity as it towers imposingly over the town.
Oban being a harbour town, seafood is abundant here with the fishing fleet moored alongside the wharf. Outdoor eating places cooking up scallops, mussels and unusual prawns are all located along the waterfront, and you can sit at these places, enjoy fresh seafood, and take in the views – what a setting.
After two days in Oban, it was time to head further north with our next stop, famous Loch Ness. We had been told from other guests in Oban that they had just completed a cruise through the Caledonian Canal that connects all the Lochs up from Inverness south through a series of locks including Loch Ness, so we were keen to stop off at The Bridge of Oich along the way to see a part of the canal. Later in the trip we would actually experience boats passing through the locks at Fort Augustus.
We also detoured into Glencoe to view the unrivalled mountain views with spectacular peaks such as Buachaille, Etive, Mor and Bidean nam Bian although the low cloud and rain hampered the vista somewhat but being typical Scottish weather, it added to the enjoyment of seeing this area as it is most of the year.
Our trip into Foyers Lodge at Loch Ness was another Single-Track Road and the only difference this time was that it was raining all the way, so it made it all the harder to see oncoming cars. The locals are so use to these roads they don’t see what the issue is but the last few days driving these roads have certainly has been an experience for us, I can tell you. It seems to be case for all tourists though as we stumbled on an actual brochure in a coffee shop days later that provides instructions on driving on these roads but it was too late by then, we had already experienced the fear and trepidation.
Foyers Lodge is located on what locals call the “quite side” of Loch Ness and is unbelievably picturesque. The Lodge overlooks the Loch and provides magnificent views from your bedroom as well as the general living rooms and front garden.
Nearby are the renowned Falls of Foyer with a walking trail that takes you through the forest to the falls then down to the shore of Loch Ness itself.
The feeling that we both shared standing on the rocky shore of famous Loch Ness looking up and down the Loch with its tranquillity and picturesque wilderness was surreal. We unfortunately didn’t sight the famed monster, but we certainly spent some time searching while we soaked up the atmosphere.
We ended our last day at Foyers Lodge having a competitive game of “Finska” on the front lawn overlooking Loch Ness as the sun was receding onto the top of the mountains while enjoying Happy Hour. The serenity and quietness of our surrounds was just magic. For those interested the final score for “Finska”ending up even which was a good result to ensure our final night dinner at the Lodge would be utterly enjoyable.
The food at Foyers Lodge was simply superb with a dinner menu that you don’t expect in this somewhat remote location. This is a very special place in the Highlands, and we left full of wonderful memories. We certainly have had unbelievable meals on the Scottish Highlands part of our adventure.
What was also a surprise was the logging that is happening in this part of Scotland with large stretches of forest cleared and then being reforested with “logging in progress” signs common throughout. Logging trucks are a continual presence on these roads, and I hadn’t really expected that to be the case, but forestry is a big industry in this part of Scotland.
Tomorrow we are heading to the Isle of Skye and an attempt to rewrite history from our previous sojourn there so wish us luck. Until then I hope you are continuing to enjoy your wine whenever it is calling you. We certainly are – take care.
Bruce & Pauline
When Wine Calls 
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